Day 6: Lough Inagh to Leenane

Distance 15 km Hiking time: 4 – 6 hours Height difference (↑) 100 m

Also today there was only a relatively short distance of 15 km. But before we set off there was of course the obligatory breakfast again. Good that you hike so much, otherwise the Irish breakfast would probably make you quite fat in the long run 😂 Benno was unfortunately not better, but rather worse – the typical signs of a cold spread. Nevertheless we left after breakfast and packed our suitcases for the luggage transport.

Today’s route should lead us between the Twelve Bens and the Maumturk Mountains. The area to be walked through consisted mainly of marshland and we should not expect big differences in altitude.

Marschland in Connemara
Marsh land in Connemara
Ein Wanderweg wie er schöner nicht sein könnte...und deswegen Titelbild meines Blogs :-)
A hiking trail like it couldn’t be more beautiful…and therefore cover of my blog 🙂

The weather was a bit mixed again, but in Ireland there is no bad weather but only wrong clothes. And if the weather is bad you just wait five minutes, then you have another – so, enough of the truisms 😉 The marshland we walked through in the Inagh Valley offered spectacular views and the hiking trail itself should find its way to my blog as a cover picture to embody the “Dirty Path” 🙂

The many small tributaries in the Lough Inagh held us back for quite some time, because here the various camera angles could be tested once in all peace. It has to be said that we are both far away from professional photographers.

Zuflüsse des Lough Inagh
Tributaries of Lough Inagh
Zwischen den Twelve Bens und den Maamturk Mountains hindurch
Between the Twelve Bens and the Maumturk Mountains
Miniature waterfall

At the small “waterfall” in the picture above we took a break. Since there was no supermarket or similar in the Inagh Valley, we accepted Julia’s offer to pack lunch packs for today and we plundered them now.

Since we lay very well in the time we rested here a good hour. I remembered a part of the conversation with Paul and Lorraine from the previous evening when Paul claimed that we Germans wanted to make a competition out of everything. In order to tease the two who wanted to leave for us, we left a little message on the way and as it turned out later it was also discovered and understood with the necessary wink of the eye 😉

Germans are always into competition ;-)
Germans are always into competition 😉
Benno, Berge, Wald und Marschland
Benno, mountains, forest and marshland

Shortly before the end of the day’s stage we reached a ridge and from there we saw Killary Harbour for the first time. Confusingly, Killary Harbour is not a harbour but a fjord and the only one in Ireland. The fjord is about 16 km long and up to 45 m deep. Mussels and salmon are bred there and of course excursion boats sail around the fjord.

The view from the hill to the fjord was fantastic! Our way should now lead us along the fjord to Leenane.

Ausblick auf Irlands einzigen Fjord
View of Ireland’s only fjord
Immer wieder fließendes Wasser
Running water again and again
Und am Ende des Fjords - Leenane
And at the end of the fjord – Leenane

The way to Leenane worked out and we walked the last kilometer of the way on the N95. This section was not so beautiful due to the relatively high traffic volume and thank God it was quickly over.

We passed by the Leenane Hotel on the way and read there advertisement for “Connemara Seaweed Baths”. The advertising for it read as follows:

Connemara Seaweed Baths are the only salt water seaweed baths in the West of Ireland. (Galway Mayo & Roscommon) and are situated beside Leenane Hotel.

Our seaweed is hand cut daily and is fresh with essential nutrients and minerals. Bathing in Salt Water (Thalassotherapy) is essential for the release of minerals and nutrients found in seaweed and is Ireland’s oldest spa treatment. As well as relaxing tired and aching muscles, saltwater seaweed baths provide a natural cure for skin ailments from psoriasis to eczema and also help relieve associated pain of arthritis and rheumatism

That sounded great for us and we decided to jump into more comfortable clothes at the B&B and see if we could get an appointment. Our B&B today was the Convent B&B which at first sight really seemed a bit scary to us 😉 In the hallway there is a picture of a boy who looks at you apparently everywhere. Also the breakfast room in the form of a chapel including colorful bull’s-eye glass panes intensifies the first, almost creepy impression. But once you have met the nice hosts and got a tea served in the beautiful fireplace room, the impression has passed very quickly.

No B&B for longer stays

The rooms of the B&B are quite sufficient to spend a night there, but they are very puristic and if someone wants to spend a longer time in Leenane I would advise to choose another B&B. The breakfast on the other hand was the best I got during the whole holiday. Fresh salmon and the spiciest cheddar I’ve had so far, plus the ubiquitous toast and of course tea.

After we had put on fresh clothes we called the Leenane Hotel and arranged an appointment for 17:00 o’clock. Until it was so far we explored the place, enjoyed the view of the fjord and plundered a souvenir shop where every article had a Barack Obama imprint 😂 I know that Barack Obama also has Irish roots, but as far as I know they are in Moneygall much further southeast 🤔

Disappointing seaweed bath

Shortly before 5 pm we arrived at the spa area of the Leenane Hotel and registered, but the friendly lady at the reception couldn’t find a reservation for us. Quite surprised we discussed a bit back and forth until it turned out that the number of the Seaweed Baths & Spa on the homepage of the Leenane Hotel did not belong to the spa area of the hotel, but to another spa in another village. Unfortunately it was too late with a taxi to make our appointment there and in the Spa of the Leenane Hotel there was nothing free at short notice.

Disappointed we left again and missed the opportunity to try a seaweed bath.

But we met Paul and Lorraine and arranged to have dinner at the Leenane Hotel for the evening. It was again a very convivial evening with good food and some rather drunken guests in the bar area of the hotel 😂

We drank another beer in Gaynor’s bar, but soon went back to the B&B because Benno was worse than better.

What the next day brought and how we got to Drummin you can read on the next page.

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