Day 5: Inverarnan – Tyndrum

Distance 20km – Hiking time: 5 – 7 hours – Altitude (↑) 550m

Today’s section was about saints and bridges. Seriously, we crossed a lot of bridges today. For me as a fan of splashing and rushing of the water incredibly beautiful and also Mama was enthusiastic.

After a breakfast in the Lounge & Bar – this time in the form of a buffet – we started again with freshly packed backpacks. Our constant companions today were the rivers “Fillan” and “Falloch” which we crossed several times and their various tributaries from the surrounding mountains.

After about three kilometres you reach the Falls of Falloch. Well, you’d reach them if you had instructions mentioning this waterfall. Hillwalk Tours urgently needs to do some rework here. For me this also means, of course, that I get a travel guide myself, despite my travel documents, and note down some striking and worth seeing places myself.

If of Falloch means “hidden waterfalls” in German and for us the name has done itself all honour 😉

Bach bei den Falls of Falloch
Bach at the Falls of Falloch

Shortly before Crianlarich, half of our day’s stage, the forest cleared through which the path led us for the most part and gave us a view of the Ben More. The Ben More is with 1174 meters height one of the numerous Munros in Scotland, north of the river Tay it is even the highest.

Blick in Richtung Ben More
View towards Ben More

We continued in the direction of our saint of the day, St. Fillan. But before that we had a very special one of the various bridges we crossed today – a railway bridge. This bridge emerges out of nowhere and with its moss-covered natural stones and the winding staircase underneath, it just looks great.

The second photo could also come from my hometown Hamburg, namely from the Miniaturwunderland. This is a huge model railway that attracts millions of visitors every year and there are so beautiful details to admire.

Bahnviadukt vor Auchreoch
Railway viaduct before Auchreoch
Wie in einer Modelleisenbahn fotografiert
As photographed in a model railway layout

Now we finally came to the ruins of the monastery Sankt Fillan of which there are unfortunately no photos at this place, but the photo of the info board has become something again. With this technical faux pas I have created the basis for myself to walk the West Highland Way again in good time 🙂

St. Fillan was awarded healing powers and he is also the patron saint of the mentally ill. I guess that’s why I liked him immediately.

"Fillan"-Infotafel an der Ruine des Klosters St Fillan
“Fillan” info board at the ruin of the monastery St Fillan

Because both of us were quite broken today from the not steep but steady hike uphill, we absolutely wanted to put our feet up for half an hour with coffee and tea. So far, however, there has been no opportunity to do so along the way. We could have turned off to Crianlarich a few kilometres before to take a break there, but thought we’d rather follow the West Highland Way to make our day’s stage. Had we known how close we were to our goal, we would have taken more time.

Directly behind the information board to St. Fillan we saw in some distance a collection of houses, here we wanted to try our luck. So we ran there, but had to realize that it was “only” the SRUC Hill & Mountain Research Center. The SRUC researches economic and ecological solutions for land management with a focus on reducing greenhouse gas emissions.

So there was a lot of science, but neither tea nor coffee.

Rast bei den Strathfillan Wigwams
Rest at the Strathfillan Wigwams

Not even one kilometer further we should find the Strathfillan Wigwams at the shop. The wooden huts in tent form and the tent sites gave a hint of it, here we have a refreshment! And lo and behold, we were standing in front of the Trading Post, once bent around the corner. Here we had tea and coffee as well as the first bacon roll of my life – great! What’s a bacon roll? Just two slices of soft Brown Bred, lots of good butter and even more good Bacon – that gives strength!

I took off my shoes and was happy for the first time during this hike. We sat in the sun for about an hour and watched the hustle and bustle around us, then we went on.

Much faster than expected we reached Tyndrum after a short hike. We asked ourselves about the Tigh na Fraoch B&B where Heather greeted us friendly. Once again we had found a great place to stay.

After taking a shower we went through the small village to have dinner at the Tyndrum Inn and drink another beer or two. About two hours later we went back and fell exhausted into our beds.

Who had the freshest fish of the vacation and why it became lonely you can read on the next page.

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